Haven't heard any "nightmares" on that particular one, but I'm putting it on my technician's network.. Both Detroit and 12,000 techs around the world monitor it. Should come up with an answer for you. George
Still haven't heard any nightmare tales like yours: Hopefully you gotr a bad part or something! Let me know if this continues!
Will a 6 lug (thicker) brake rotor from a (smaller) Chevy fit a 93 Toyota T100 4X4 Pick-up? This customer is tired of the thin warping Toyota rotors. Any suggestions to this customers' question will be passed on to him. Thanks in advance.
All 6 lugs are the same bolt pattern: however there's centering hole diameter, offset from hub, and overall thickness of rotors and pads that might not work.
In this wet weather an avid 4 wheeler can warp rotors anyway by getting them good and hot by overworking them stopping those tall tires then hitting a mudpuddle!
Can you help? 1990 Chev Trk 350 v-8 Auto...now has 138k. When I come to a stop, or take-off, you get a "thump" feeling in the rear-end area? Had yoke, penion gear, etc checked, adjusted, whatever they do...but it still "thumps", sometimes at a light you can let up on the brake and it "thumps" 5 seconds later, then when you give it gas... boom! thump again! guess its always done this, I got it at 80k, its done this the whole time I've had it, no one around here can fix it! Suggestions????
I'd check the rear suspension: spring shackles (or perches if coil), shock bushings, or any other sway bars, etc. Sounds like the axle is shifting. George
Repairs: I don't really need a quote, but an outside opinion. I recently had a power steering pump put on my car and it froze up on me. They replaced it again and it went out again. Upon taking it back to the shop, they informed me that I am going to have to replace the rack and pinion for it to work properly. Nevermind that I just spent $500 getting the power steering pump problem fixed, now they want $500 to replace the rack and pinion. What's your opinion on this...the price, the repairs. How difficult of a job is it to replace the rack and pinion. I am very mechanical, but I haven't done the rack and pinion on a car before. I feel like I could do it with proper instruction and proper tools, but I don't think I can sink another $500 into this car! HELP. You can just contact me at the e-mail address instead of calling long distance! Thanks,
Hard to say without examining the car, of course, BUT...... 1) Power steering components CAN create metal fragments when they fail. (rack or pump) 2) If these fragments are not removed before a new component is installed, the new component can be destroyed. 3) Such contamination can SOMETIMES but NOT ALWAYS be detected by examining the fluid. Put a sample on a piece of white toilet paper or a coffee filter. There should be no tinby silver pieces. Ditto thre fluid resorvoir. no silvery swirls should be visible.
How does the rack itself perform before the pumps trash out? If it feels normal 'til the pump locks, you might escape with a good flush of the rack (I disconnect the return line, run clean fluid to the rack, dump the return fluid for 1 quart and discard, run a few more through and strain through a paint strainer then coffee filter and run through again. When my filters stop catching metal, I'll reassemble.)
Of course, for a sure fire fix, replacing the rack reduces the possibility that a stray bit of metal would come through and trash another pump, although I would advise flushing even just to clean the lines.
Another note: the most common cause of metal fragments in the fluid is the rack, not the pump. This is especially true if the car was driven without power assist for a while before the pump was replaced.
As to the price, in my shop the rack rebuilt is $300 or less, used around $175. Labor: $120
The $500 figure is not out of line.
I do happen to personally have a rack from an 87 Taurus which I would sell for $100 if it would be worth shipping it to you.
As to DIY: I wouldn't recommend it without a lift, air tools, expert advice.
Air suspension system- This system is not functioning properly, sometimes the front of the car will lower itself all the way down overnight and sometimes it does not. When it does go down you have to start the car and let it run for 5 minutes and it will come back up. Is there helpful literature or suggestions you can provide. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Turn off the switch in the trunk. If it NEVER goes down with the switch off, you probably have a compressor or compressor relay problem.
The way it works: a valve at each air bag either lets in air from the compressor, or lets air out. Whenever the "let air in" valve opens, the computer closes the compressor relay, and the compressor runs.
Even when the car is parked, the air suspension works.
How it doesn't work: the compressor opens the valve. Either the compressor doesn't turn on, or it doesn't make enough air pressure. If the air pressure is low enough, the bag goes down rather than up. After 5 minutes the computer gives up and shuts down.
You probably need one or more of the below:
3) new "o" rings on the plastic lines (check with soapy water)
I notice a front end vibration when I reach 35-40 MPH. New tires. Tires have been balanced, aligned, rotated. Still have problem. Manager said he thinks its a U-joint, or drive shaft problem, not problems with the tires. Can you give me any ideas? Thanks.
U-joint, motor mount, rear tranny mount. Vibration should be spotable by putting it on the lift and running it up to 45 mph or so. A stiff u-joint, center support bearing (if so equipped), or a rear transmission mount would be my best guess.
If you can make it by Gainesville, I look for free.
Make: Hyundai Model: S Coupe Year: 1991 Engine Size: 5 sp/4cyl Repairs: driver's side always squeaks when we get in and out of the car (and other times). Somebody said we need a Shock? Is this the truth? Are there other reasons for this noise? My mom came in Saturday and you fixed her fuel pump, she was very happy with your service.
Quite possible it's a shock/shock mounting. Could be a number of other suspension things also. If you could bring it by sometime, I look for free. Best way is to get underneath it with a mechanic's stethescope (cute device: I use it a lot) and see where the noise is coming from.
97 gmc safari with an output shaft to driveshaft yoke bind...dealership said they filed it down and greased but 3500 miles later it is starting to bind again...chevy tech bulletin says to correct in that manner but gmc doesnt even have a bulletin regarding this problem...feels like a light kick in the pants when i come to a stop and the shaft unsticks and slides forward...are the splines incorectly machined? vehicle has 16000 miles on it now...
Could be: haven't heard anything on that one: should be able to fle it and grease it so it will work. Still under warranty at 16000: I'd keep ragging the dealer until satisfied!
I HAVE A 1967 CHEVY 2WD TRUCK WITH SIX LUG 4 WHEEL DRUM BRAKES . WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO DO IS CONVERT THE FRONT TO DISC BRAKES, CAN YOU HELP? Depends on when they changed the frames. Wander some u-pull junkyards:you'd need to at least change spindles. That might be it. Or check with an interchange: a friendly salvage yard or library has one. Look for what year disc was first offered: (I know by 1970 it was a option). See which upper & lower control arms are the same for drum brake front ends. Then see if the same control arm fits both drum and disc. If so, you just need spindles, proportioning valve, and master cyl. If disc and drum control arms are different, you need them also, but from a year that takes the same drum brake control arms. Got it?
The cv joints on my car are getting bad. When you go around the corner they make noises. What would happen eventually if they are not repaired?
Eventually they separate internally and you don't move anymore. Usually they don't actually fall out, but if they do they could do some damage, depending on how fast you're going. They'll usually fail going around a corner: grinding noise, engine revs up like it's in neutral: you walk, car gets towed. We replace them for about $125 per side.
i want to find out how to replace a strut on a 88 bearetta
Only basic hand tools needed: but you need a spring compressor to take the cartridges out.
>Make: ford >Model: taurus >Year: 1987 >Engine Size: 3.0 >Repairs: I need to replace the iner tie rods, I would really appreciate some advice on how to disconnect the inner tie rod from the gear rack.I am not sure if there is a pin or set screw holding the nut on.I would appreciate any information you could give me.
THERE'S A LITTLE ROLL PIN YOU HAVE TO DRIVE IN TO REMOVE THE TIE ROD END. IT WILL DRIVE THROUGH. THE NEW END WILL HAVE A NEW PIN.
>Hello! > I am the owner of a 91 Toyota 4 wheel drive pickup. I am not a mechanic but would like to know how to do my own wheel bearing repacks. Would consulting a Chilton''s help?. Getting the bearings repacked is >important,but I hate spending $200 plus everytime it needs done! Any advice or help you could give would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, you need a book. Haynes are plentiful, specific, cheap, sometimes accurate. Actually, most of the time. Chilton is better: they finally found a buyer with Cahner. No really exotic tools needed: maybe some metric allen or torx. Large nut preloading bearings may require a special tool, then again torque is low and you might be able to figure something out. 4wd setups are not that bad after you get past the locking mechanism in the hub. People freak out when all the little pieces and springs fall out on the ground when they take it apart.
Thank you for visiting the ECONOMECHANIX WEB SITE. Please feel free to comment. We also serve the surrounding communities of Alachua, High Springs, Hawthorne, and Newberry! Gainesville has been my home since 1974, and I've loved Gvl and the Gators since I came here in the fall of 1974 to attend the University of Florida. I loved it so much I stayed and opened my car repair business. Originally it was out of the back of a 1963 Chevrolet wagon, but in 1977 a fellow mechanic and I opened an auto repair shop with actual walls, etc. I stayed in the same location for 26 years, and recently moved my operation to property I bought 15 miles east of Gainesville. I am doing most all the repairs myself now, having reduced my overhead from $1500 per month to practically nothing. I do work by appointment only. I mostly work only on my established customers cars, but I will occasionally take on new clients. E-mail me and I will either make arrangements to look at your car, or I will recommend you to someone who will.
George G. Scott, Jr.
ABS: Anti-Lock Brake Systems
ADVANCE: Car ignition timing
ALTERNATORS and Car Battery
BATTERIES: Auto, Car or Truck
BELTS AND HOSES
BODY AND BUMPER REPAIRS
BRAKE REPAIRS: Car or Truck
CARBURETORS:Car & Truck
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
CLEANING: Engine Cleaning
CLUTCH REPAIRS: Car & Truck
COMPRESSION: Car Engine
COMPUTER CAR CONTROLS
CV JOINT OR CV AXLES
ENGINES: Car & Truck
FUEL AIR MIXTURE
FUEL INJECTION: Car & Truck
FUEL PUMPS: Car & Truck
GAGES AND "IDIOT LIGHTS"
GASKETS AND SEALS
GLASS: WINDOWS AND WINDSHIELDS
HEADS & HEAD GASKET
HOSES AND BELTS
"IDIOT LIGHTS" AND GAGES
IGNITION TIMING: Car & Truck
AUTO JACKS: lifting cars safely
LEAN "Car runs lean"
LIGHTS: WARNING OR "IDIOT LIGHTS"
Limp Home Mode
NO START: Car Won't Start
OIL: What's right for your car?
OIL LIGHT ON OR GAGE LOW
RADIATORS: Car and Truck
RICH: Car runs rich
SEALS AND GASKETS
SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT
STARTERS: Auto, Truck
TIMING: IGNITION TIMING
TIMING BELT & TIMING CHAIN
WARNING LIGHTS OR "IDIOT LIGHTS"
WATER PUMP REPAIR
WINDOWS AND WINDSHIELDS