Probably just needs a front brake job. I know GM has them on all vehicles, and I've seen them on other makes: a little "wear indicator" (just a tiny piece of sheet metal bent over which hits the rotor before the pads wear out completely and go metal to metal.)
It's either that or a wheel bearing. Check out iATN.net.... I'm a member, and they'll have a member shop near you. I'm sure some member shops are better than others, but at least they are on the net and know where to go to get answers to the tough problems!
pulled the tire, replaced pads on both and its doing fine
thanks! I wish you guys were in Texas!
Hello group! We have been seeing a number of vehicles with the complaint of rear brake noise ie. growl, grind, "hum" etc. This can occur on OE shoes, and also after a rear brake overhaul. Some of the noises come and go, while others are there all the time. We have used everything from the inexpensive type to the OE type shoes with the same problems. I don't believe it is an installation problem because we have seen OE do the same thing. We always make sure the drums are turned properly, always use new hardware, lube mounting pads, adjust properly. If anyone has found a cure, please pass it along to me. My techs are pulling their hair out! Thanks again!
Haven't had many rear complaints yet, but front ones sometimes drive us crazy.
I do always take a slow cut on stuff, use rubber bands, sometimes even hang chains on the tollholder when they start to sing. After, I always finish off with a back and forth motion of 80 grit paper to crosshatch the surface.
Sometimes they still make noise at times. The prob. I believe is the replacements for asbestos don't perform as well as asbestos. There's also been a shift to more metal in linings to increase heat transfer & dissipation. Full metal brakes (like phosphor/bronze on racecars) squeal like demons all the time: but the hotter they get, the better they stop. I just do my best, and then explain the "new, safer" brakes to them. I also tell them they last longer. (True, although the drums and rotors trash out sooner. Thus on my "rotor and hub is one piece" Toyota corolla, I always get the cheapest, softest pads I can find. I don't get 75,000 miles out of a brake job: more like 40,000 to 50,000; but I have done 3 brake jobs on it, turned the rotors each time, and still am within specs. Had I been running the premium metallics I would have needed rotors by now.) George Scott Economechanix
I own a 95 dodge ram 2500 V10. I need to get my roters turned but i cant seem to get them off. i was wondering if you could give any tips of tell me if i need to have a spesial tool.if you could help me out in any it would be greatly appreaciated. thanks, aaron
Is it 4wd? If so, the whole rotor assembly, bearing, and all is one piece! Look for a shop who cvan turn them on the vehicle: that's your best bet! Dodge didn't make this one a DIY type vehicle.
I recently brought my 1993 Ford Explorer (47000 miles) to the dealer to have my brakes looked at and ended up having my front brake pads replaced and the rotors reground. The cost was $480. Did I get ripped off?
Well, yes and no. If they didn't replace the front rotors or calipers, just put on pads, turned the rotors, yes you did get ripped off. The most generous time I can come up with is for a 4 wheel drive. Packing or replacing bearings, calipers, and turning rotors still only comes out to be 3.5 hours labor. Ford make pads shouldn't exceed $50. Unless they charge $100 per hour, $480 is too much.
Check your invoice: I suspect they replaced your rotors, calipers, possibly wheel bearings, as well as new pads.
Brake jobs are one of my pet peeves: shops around here advertise $39.95 brake jobs with a lifetime warranty. They then take it apart, charge $500. (See "Linda puts on the brakes" and "Linda gets a freebie" on my website: econofix.com) I tell folks $75-$80 if it doesn't need rotors, bearings, etc. Some folks say ,"why so high?" I tell them to go get a $39.95 brake job if you want to find out what high means!! Most all my front brake jobs go out for $75-$80! I really would be comfortable charging around $125 per axle for brakes, but these "bait and switch" guys keep the prices down! BUT THEY DON'T! Check out iATN.net... I'm a member.... there's a independent mechanic near you who is bound to be better than the DEAL-WHORE!
I was changing my brakes when I noticed brake fluid was leaking from my calibares (the thing that looks like a cup. My question is should I rebuild the calibares are should I buy new ones?
Rebuilt ones are so cheap, you probably would be better off going that way.
Hi, I'm experiencing a brake problem with my 91 cadillac Coup deVille. It seems to be bleeding off when I have light pressure on the brake. When there is hard pressure the brakes hold firm. Does this indicate a master cylinder or slave cylinder problem? Does this car have disc brakes or drum brakes? Any info would be appreciated.
Front disc, back probably is drum. If no fluid is being used (having to add fluid)useage, probably master cyl. bypassing internally and/or leaking.
>Greeting's : I am thinking about trying to do a "Front Brake Job " on my 1993 Ford , Explorer Sport. ( Pads & Rotors ). I've worked on Car Brakes before , but that was before all this "Air Bag " and " A.B.S. System " stuff came along. Question : Is there any thing I need to know about doing this brake job on a Vehicle with A.B.S. & Air Bag. ( sensors , widgets , gizmos , etc. ). Or is it still pretty much the same old set-up. ?. I would appreciate any helpfull hints or comments.
There's a "tone wheel" on each rotor: be careful when removing for turning the rotors not to damage this or the sensor. If you rebuild/replace the calipers, gravity bleed them. No "pump up and hold" on a dry system!
Okay so this is a long drawn out problem with my brothers truck. he has a lifted f150, 2005 with a 5.4, has 37's and 22's. stock brakes. Never had a problem until about a two or three years ago. takes it in the mudhole and destroys passenger side wheel bearing. i know he fixed only that side, idk what all else he did but he never changed the driver side. about a year ago the abs light started showing inside the cab and the brakes were screeching. Not so much as a noise screech but the screech you feel in the brake peddle when your tires lock up and the traction control takes over. It would only do that randomly when pushing the brakes. however it never affected the performance of stopping. The light would turn off and it would be fine. it was random. About a month ago he was driving to work and his driver side wheel bearing goes out. Front driver side tire was leaning a little, brake disk was hitting the caliper. it was a mess. i ended up using a 1 inch impact to get the big ass lug nut on the front axle off. the nut had welded itself to the bearing. i thought i was gonna break the spindle but i did not. we ended up changing both front disk, calipers, obviously bearings and nuts. braking was better. But still the abs. the light was on and it did that surge screech thing. How do we fix this. he has a 6 month old girl and he will barely put her in it. Just needs to be fixed. any help would be appreciated.
There has to be an intermittent breakdown in the signal to the ABS computer.
Mud in the tonewheels is highly possible! (that WOULD be nice, wouldn't it! ) Hey, either everything is packed with mud, or everything gets a good hosing down, soaking everything with water.
With mudding wire damage is possible. Sharp metal edges on computer wiring harnesses can make LOVELY intermittents that are LOADS of fun to diagnose.
A bad wheel bearing could make the sensor hit the tone wheel, damaging both.
It could be the ABS computer itself: rare but not unusual
An overcharging alternator or bad power to the computer can be intermittent and cause "cute" computer glitches.
Also: it might be rear ABS, especially if the truck doesn't pull when the computer is "ABS-ing " on whatever wheel. if it was one of the fronts it would have an obvious pull.
Thank you for visiting the ECONOMECHANIX WEB SITE. Please feel free to comment. We also serve the surrounding communities of Alachua, High Springs, Hawthorne, and Newberry! Gainesville has been my home since 1974, and I've loved Gvl and the Gators since I came here in the fall of 1974 to attend the University of Florida. I loved it so much I stayed and opened my car repair business. Originally it was out of the back of a 1963 Chevrolet wagon, but in 1977 a fellow mechanic and I opened an auto repair shop with actual walls, etc. I stayed in the same location for 26 years, and recently moved my operation to property I bought 15 miles east of Gainesville. I am doing most all the repairs myself now, having reduced my overhead from $1500 per month to practically nothing. I do work by appointment only. I mostly work only on my established customers cars, but I will occasionally take on new clients. E-mail me and I will either make arrangements to look at your car, or I will recommend you to someone who will.
George G. Scott, Jr.
ABS: Anti-Lock Brake Systems
ADVANCE: Car ignition timing
ALTERNATORS and Car Battery
BATTERIES: Auto, Car or Truck
BELTS AND HOSES
BODY AND BUMPER REPAIRS
BRAKE REPAIRS: Car or Truck
CARBURETORS:Car & Truck
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
CLEANING: Engine Cleaning
CLUTCH REPAIRS: Car & Truck
COMPRESSION: Car Engine
COMPUTER CAR CONTROLS
CV JOINT OR CV AXLES
ENGINES: Car & Truck
FUEL AIR MIXTURE
FUEL INJECTION: Car & Truck
FUEL PUMPS: Car & Truck
GAGES AND "IDIOT LIGHTS"
GASKETS AND SEALS
GLASS: WINDOWS AND WINDSHIELDS
HEADS & HEAD GASKET
HOSES AND BELTS
"IDIOT LIGHTS" AND GAGES
IGNITION TIMING: Car & Truck
AUTO JACKS: lifting cars safely
LEAN "Car runs lean"
LIGHTS: WARNING OR "IDIOT LIGHTS"
Limp Home Mode
NO START: Car Won't Start
OIL: What's right for your car?
OIL LIGHT ON OR GAGE LOW
RADIATORS: Car and Truck
RICH: Car runs rich
SEALS AND GASKETS
SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT
STARTERS: Auto, Truck
TIMING: IGNITION TIMING
TIMING BELT & TIMING CHAIN
WARNING LIGHTS OR "IDIOT LIGHTS"
WATER PUMP REPAIR
WINDOWS AND WINDSHIELDS